World as Muse: Surf's Up

One of the coolest things about living is this area is coming to understand a bit about surfing and surf culture.

M. is learning to surf, so he is teaching me some of the theory, which involves an understanding of how to approach, catch and ride a wave. Most of the time, I have no idea what he's talking about, because surfing is clearly more about muscle memory than anything else. But I like that he uses words like rip, break and beach dump. To which I can only respond: "Duuuuuuuuude".

My Surfer Dude

Surf Wives

Surf culture is just a whole thing. It seems like everybody surfs in this town; it's just part of life. People "grab a surf" before, after, or in the middle of work. You see teenagers, men and women in their 50s and 60s, and everyone in between doing it. My favourite thing to observe is what I'll call "Surfer Flow". It's the regular sight of a surfer walking down the street, surfboard in hand, barefoot and soaking wet. No wallet, shoes or towel come between the surfer and his or her pilgrimmage to the ocean. He or she has simply grabbed the board, walked out the door, and jumped into the ocean. And this is a very common sight in these parts. Hating both being wet and being cold (and worst of all, being wet AND cold), I could never do it. But more power to them.

The surf lifeguards who patrol most beaches and are pretty cool too. They're all volunteers. Apparently swimming at public beaches was a big no no during the austere 1920s. Obviously, lots of people did it anyway, except that it meant lots of them also drowned. Hence, the establishment of Surf Lifesaving. When the lifesavers are not saving lives, they're engaging in competitions between clubs. And just generally looking good.

A Surf Lifesaver at Noosa Main Beach

Every major beach here has its own Surf Lifesaving Club. And Surf Clubs are just a whole thing too. They're great hang outs, and generally have the best view in town. Check out Scary Waxen Lifesaver Dude and Creepy Ceiling Mounted Lifesaver Dude, fixtures at the Noosa SLSC. Even though they greet you upon your arrival, brunch at the Surf Club (and overlooking the ocean) is pretty much the Best. Sunday. Morning. Ever.