Saturday 30 June 2012

Keep Reading, Y'all

The main reason I started this blog was to write about our trip. I initially wrote a random assortment of posts just to get it started, and then it became a travelogue.

But now that we're back...does that mean I have to stop writing? What if I don't wanna?

I don't have access to my current blog stats, but last I checked (a couple weeks ago), the blog had over 3000 views. Holy macaroni. I have only shared the site with friends and family, and deliberately did not post it on Facebook. So that means that those of you who are reading are reading a lot. Yay! I couldn't be happier.

The vast majority of you are too shy to post comments (or tried, and couldn't). So, I'll just say thanks to all of you for reading. It feels great to have been able to share our adventures with you.

Please keep checking in, because my plan is to continue writing. I'm not sure about what, or what form it will take. You might have noticed that I have an opinion or twenty. And I love to see and do new things. So I don't think lll be lacking for material. But if you have suggestions on directions I could take the blog in, let me know. You can post a comment, or email me personally.

This world is still my muse, you know. Even here at home...

Wednesday 27 June 2012

Proud of Ourselves (and, uh...me)

M. and I feel proud that we took this journey. We always said we would continue to travel with kids. But, admittedly, fear almost stopped us. To be clear, my fear almost stopped us.

Those who know me well are aware that I have been struggling with some pretty intense anxiety over the past few years since becoming a mother. But as I'm journeying towards self awareness, I realize that it has been part of me for much of my life. What's that? I should seek therapy for it? You're right...know anyone good? Ha! That's the irony. I am trained to help others deal with anxiety. "If only I could follow my own advice". A little therapist joke. Aren't we a hilarious bunch?

Actually, I think it will help me in working with my own clients, because I understand how pervasive and debilitating it can be. And in truth, all therapists see other therapists. It's part of being good at your job. In the meantime, while we've been here, I have been using strategies and techniques I use with clients on myself. But it's still an issue I confront on a daily basis.

So how did it affect our trip? M. and I had always planned on taking this sabbatical in France, but at the last minute, we changed our plans. Bali was actually my idea, but M. jumped at it. But practically as soon as the proposition cane out of my mouth, I started to worry.

Almost all of my worries centre on the kids' health and safety. Obviously every parent is concerned for their kids to an extent. But mine go overboard.

Where Bali is concerned, I was worried about rabies. There has been a rabies crisis in Bali since 2008, with thousands of dogs and monkeys infected, and a couple hundred human deaths. It is possible to get the vaccine as a preventative measure, but it's not really recommended because it is costly and involves multiple shots, which would be traumatic for the kids. So you just hope not to be bitten, and deal with getting the shots if you are. But small children are at a particular risk because they might not report bites. So I was sh$@&ing myself about that.

Then there are the mosquito bourne illnesses. Malaria isn't much of a problem in Bali, and our travel doctor said anti malarials weren't necessary (if they had been, that would probably have been a deal breaker). But Dengue fever is common. So that means slathering our kids with bug repellant, which isn't my favorite thing to do. And they still get bites anyway sometimes.

Then there's the fact that Big J is at an age when he regularly gets cuts and scratches, and Little J Crawls around on the ground and puts everything in her mouth. Can you say infection, and parasite?

Of course, there's Hepatitis A and B and Typhoid.

I haven't even gotten to dangerous roads, non existent traffic lights, broken "sidewalks" that often have gaping holes in them, and insane traffic. There were no car seats for Big J, so *gasp*, we had to have to sit him in the back seat with a seatbelt. Can you believe crazy people (our parents, in the 70s, for example) would do that? We did travel with Little J's car seat, I insisted upon that.

Then there's the complete lack of fences around any pool. And have we discussed the lack of medical care in the Gili Islands, the speed boat to get there over the open sea? Sharp coral on the beach?

Oh, hello. You can't drink the water in Indonesia. Not even to brush your teeth. Little J still drinks bottles. So this means washing all her bottles in bottled water, and brushing our teeth with it. Our first day in Ubud, she took a full gulp of the bath water.

Are you stressed out yet? I was.

But part of the workings of an anxious mind is the distortion of reality . In technical terms, these thought patterns are called Cognitive Distortions. Wrong thinking. Assuming that the absolute worst case scenario WILL happen. Which of course is possible, but very rare. Any of the above are probably less risky than getting behind the wheel of a car in Toronto.

Living life meaningfully involves taking risks. Calculated risks, of course. But risks, nonetheless. We decided that the pay offs would be great, and that most likely, everything would be fine.

M. has been a key player in helping me to realize when I'm going off the deep end. But what is really driving me to get things under control is that I refuse to stop him or our kids from experiencing the richness life on this planet has to offer because of my own neuroses. Okay, I'll stop them sometimes. But not always.

It is a work in progress. But boy, oh boy. I deserve MAD props. We took two small kids to a developing nation, travelled to 5 different locations, kept everyone in one piece, and had a blast in the process.

Taking my (our) bow.

Glad that's done. I've got worrying about tomorrow's journey home to do...




L'Shana Haba, B'Gili Islands

Just lying awake at 5:00 a.m, struggling to overcome jet lag. Big J is up too; he's chowing down on crackers on the floor. After being up from 3:00-4:30, Little J is finally back to bed.

Here's one of my final blog posts that I just realized was never published. Enjoy.

For the non Yids among you, that's Hebrew for "Next Year in The Gili Islands". Not 11 more. For those of you who want to experience these stunning islands, go now. Like, yesterday. Because they won't remain so idyllic for much longer.

Our last few days on Gili Air were spent chilling. One day, we hired a boat to take us out to the reef and snorkel. It was my turn to see giant turtles. Two of them. What gorgeous and graceful creatures.

The kids had lots of great pool time too, and Big J made his own aquarium in a bucket to house all the hermit crabs and starfish he collected from the ocean.

We're moving on to Sanur in south Bali for our final few days. This part of Bali is most developed, so it will be an easier transition back to traffic, hustle and bustle....and soon enough, reality.

Saturday 23 June 2012

The Harper's Index Has Nothing on Me

Well, our travels have come to an end. Almost. In 36 or more LOOONG hours, we'll be back home. Sort of. When I booked our tickets, I thought I knew what I was doing by planning to leave a day before we wanted to be home, allowing for the time change. Only d'oh! I didn't have my head screwed on properly at that particular moment. We will in fact gain a day on our way home. We leave here June 29, and arrive home June 29. And can't get into our house, because we have a tenant with a lease until July 1. Darn it all to heck.

Luckily, my sweetest ever friends Jess and Mark have offered up their place, as they'll be out of town anyway. So we'll be settling back into home without really being at home for a couple days. It's clearly not ideal. But neither is the entire stairwell full of black garbage bags full of our stuff that awaits me back at our house.

In celebration of this epic journey, I have compiled this list. I love me a good list, and fun stats too.

Ballzlicht Family Trip to Australia and Indonesia. January 14-June 29, 2012

Number of flights taken: 7 (9 for M)
Number of hours flying time, combined: 58
Number of hotels stayed at: 10
Meals eaten in restaurants: Indonesia, 90. Australia, probably 35
Giant turtles spotted while snorkeling: 4
Number of wild dingos observed: 3
Full body massages received, N. and M. combined: 22
Number of massages received in Bali:20
Volcanoes observed: 4
Number of gastric issues experienced: 0
Number of beach towns visited: 11
Buddha heads purchased: 6
Dolphin sightings: 2
Instances of puking at a Balinese family compound after smelling the strong odour of pig poo: 1
Average cost (in Canadian dollars)of a coffee in Australia:$5.00
Average cost of a 60 minute massage in Indonesia: $7
Cost of a Motel 8 in Australia: $120 a night, one bunkbed, no breakfast, no elevator
Cost of a boutique hotel in Gili Trawangan, Lombok: $100, including king sized bed, full breakfast for 4 on the beach and swimming pool
Aquariums/Zoos/Animal Reserves Visited: 4
Wild Emu sightings: 1
Wild Kangaroo sightings: 15
Wild koala sightings: 0
Number of additional suitcases purchased to hold souvenirs:1
Number of hours said suitcase was in our possession before the zipper broke, rendering it useless: 24
Types of different water sports M. tried:
6
Number of instances M.was reprimanded by a jet ski operator for riding too fast or doing stunts: 2
Number of days in a row that I have eaten a massive breakfast with eggs, croissants, fruit, the works: 30
Approximate number of pounds gained: 7
Number of Tim Tam Slams attempted: 8
Times when I successfully got the coffee through the cookie: 1

There are many more, and lots more stories to be told. Looking forward to sharing them with many of you soon!










This is Gili Air

Today was a relaxed day of hanging out at the pool with the kids. Our only activity was to hire a cidomo driver to take us around the island and explore a little.

During my nap time break today, I sat in a thatched hut, read, drank a coconut milkshake, and then a cappuccino. When I got hot, I took a dip in the ocean. When I felt like moving, I collected shells and coral.

And this is why we insist that our kids take an afternoon nap.

Friday 22 June 2012

Fast Wireless Means Lots of Pics

I was just able to post a whole whack of pics very easily, so check back of the posts "Day 12: Animal Safari and Water Park" and "More Gili T pics". Hooray!

Here are a couple cute pics of the kids with our wonderful hotel staff at The Ubud Village Hotel, just for fun.

Now, That's What I'm Talking About

We arrived in Gili Air yesterday, after chartering a private boat to take us here from Gili Trawangan.  The trip was about 30 mins, and while travelling across choppy water with two small children is not my favourite thing in the world to do, I'm glad we're here.  For those concerned, we brought our own lifejackets for the kids all the way from home, to use in situations like this.

This is the experience we were looking for, and is what Trawangan was like back in the day.  It is so much more chilled out here.  Way less development, but just the right amount so that there's plenty of choice in terms of where to eat and where to stay.  There are cidomos, but not too many.  And you can rent bikes to get around.  So we're set up with bikes with baby seats, just like we were on Gili T. 

We're staying in a place that's nice, but low key.  It's not a rustic bungalow like I thought we might do, because we need a room that's big enough for all of us (we always need and extra bed for Big J and room for Little J's Pack 'n Play).  This hotel has a great pool that is just a few metres from the ocean.

It's very tranquil here, and every bit as gorgeous as we hoped. 

That's Lombok you're looking at across the water

Wednesday 20 June 2012

Animal Conservationists are Cool

Just had dinner with a super cool Australian family of 3. We actually met them a couple weeks ago in Ubud. We were walking by a restaurant where they were eating dinner with their 2.5 year old son, Solo. He and Big J were like long lost soul mates, clicking immediately. So we ended up joining them for dinner.

Yesterday, we ran into them on the street here in Gili T. Their hotel is almost next to ours. I was on my own with both kids all day, because M's birthday present was a full day off, completely to himself. So Solo's mom Tammie and I set up a little play date at our hotel's pool this morning.

You know how it is, you strike up conversation, and the usual "what do you do?" comes up. It turns out that Tammie is a zoologist who works with elephants in Africa and India. Her husband, Andy is director of communications for WWF Australia. Holy. Tammie has written 2 books about her life working with animals in Africa, and is working on a third. So cool! I plan on checking out her work when we get home.

We had a pizza dinner together tonight, and Solo and Big J had a great time having races on the beach.

If you're interested in learning a bit more about the non profit she runs, and in general, the problems facing elephants and rhinos in Africa, check out her website.

www.animalworks.com.au

This is one of the things I love about travel--meeting such amazing people!



Tuesday 19 June 2012

Happy 40th Birthday, M.

Happy Birthday to an incredible person. I've shared 15 years of my life with M, and I feel so lucky. In that time, we have travelled to 19 countries, lived in 10 apartments in 6 cities, completed 5 degrees between us, bought one house, and had 2 kids.

I have learned so much about love, happiness, success, forgiveness and parenting from him. He is an amazing partner and father. He is a superstar in his chosen career. He loves family. He loves to experience new things. He is fearless. He is a provider. He is a protector.

This momentous occasion is giving me the opportunity to brag about him a bit. He can be pretty modest, so he'll be embarrassed about this. But this blog is just for friends and family.

In honor of his 40th, I've compiled a list of the Top 40 greatest things about M. Casey Casem would be proud.

40. M. loves to do everything in flip flops. So do I.
39. M. is my own personal IT guy. And he's on call 24/7
38. M. loves to ride his bike, and he loves biking with the kids in their baby seats
37.M. isn't into cakes or cookies, but he loves ice cream, Popsicles and candy. Especially black wine gums and sour gummies.
36. He loves to dance around the house with the kids
35. He loves The Big Lebowski. A LOT.
34. M. teaches Big J so much, from how to fly a kite and how to snorkel to how to play gently with his little sister
33. He favorite food is french fries, and looks for any excuse to order them.
32. He loves olives, chilies, coffee and good beer.
31. M. is a great cook. He taught me much of what I know.
30. M is generous
29. M. is very loyal. He never gives up on people, and can always see the good in them.
28. M. is very loving
27. M. is an extremely involved and hands on father. The kids love being with him.
26. He loves hockey, and the Habs. A little too much.
25. He is a career superstar. Articles about his work have been published by the New York Times and the Globe and Mail, among many other sources. His work is cited in several textbooks, and he has over 50 scholarly publications. Over the last several years, he has been the most productive faculty member in his entire department, and one year, on his entire campus.
24. M. is a gifted and engaging speaker. He is invited to give talks all over North America and Europe.
23. He is very dedicated to nurturing and helping his graduate students, and works tirelessly to help them get their research published. He gives each of them substantial money from his own grants so that they can travel to conferences. A couple years ago, they awarded him Most Valuable Faculty Member.
22. He is awesome at putting stuff together. Which means I can buy whatever I like at Ikea.
21. He knows I don't like to drive unless I have to, so he always drives for us
20. He's good at watering plants. I kill all plants I touch.
19. M. is a family man. He always sets aside weekends for family time.
18. M. wrote a book! He edited an academic volume about one of his research areas.
17. He is not materialistic. M. doesn't care about status items. This makes it almost impossible to shop for him.
16. M. loves to have new adventures. He gets giddy like a little boy whenever we travel to a new place.
15. M. does a lot around the house. He is very neat, and he cleans up after himself (and me!)
14. Through M., I have had so many opportunities I otherwise wouldn't have had, like living in New York and traveling to Australia and Bali
13. M. helps me when I'm scared or feeling down
12. M. is great at getting our kids down to sleep. Way better than me.
11. He is a daredevil, who will try just about anything from bungee jumping to going off road in the mountains on an ATV.
10. M. is thoughtful. He spends a lot of time figuring out what to buy me on special occasions, and sometimes brings me flowers for no reason at all. He always brings the kids gifts when he's been away
9. He is funny. We have tons of inside jokes and expressions.
8. M. loves to be outdoors. He loves hiking, biking, camping, being at the beach, surfing and gardening.
7. He is super organized and efficient in both work and life. For example, he opens a bill and pays it immediately.
6. He's LOUD, but he's enthusiastic
5. M. thinks a great deal about what makes the world and the mind work.
4. He is passionate about many things, from research to food to hockey
3. When M. and I have a conflict about something he is doing or not doing, he listens. And then most times, he works hard to actually change.
2. He easily forgives, gives second chances, and doesn't hold grudges.
1. He always says "I'm sorry" first. :)

Happy Birthday, M!! I wish I was more like you. ;) Looking forward to another 80 years together!




Blogger, You Bum!

With 9 days of our trip left, Blogger tells me I no longer have enough storage to post. Not sure if I can address the problem or not. My computer is on its last legs, and so is M's. So I'm blogging from my IPhone. If it lets me continue to post without pics, I'll do that. But if not, I'll send out group emails.

Bad timing, Blogger!

More Gili T pics

Wanted to share more pics last post, but Blogger wouldn't let me.
Today we had a great lunch in the stylish French cafe, and I biked through the village which is just behind the main strip. Its amazing what a difference a couple hundred metres makes.

I'm blogging from my iPhone, and the app won't let me choose my photo size, or write in captions. But I think you'll be able to tell which shots are emblematic of the "new Gili T", which show life in the village behind the glitzy main strip, and which places have retained the "old Gili" charm.
Enjoy!
Cidomo.  See those huge photos on the wall?  We bought three of them for our wall at home. 
Gili T. village

Monday 18 June 2012

From Backpacks to Bidets

Longwinded post alert. If I can't be me, who will? ;)

I have spent the past 2 days trying to compose something about our current location, Gili Trawangan one of the 3 Gili Islands off the coast of Lombok, Indonesia. But most of the time I've just been staring slack jawed at what's going on around me.

As I shared in my last post, M. and I were here in 2001 at the tail end of a 5 month trip through Southeast Asia, where we travelled to so many mindblowing places. I counted today, and M. and I have been to 19 countries together over the last 15(!) years. And of all the places we've seen, Gili T. was our absolute favorite. In the world.

I knew it was going to be different...but I just cannot get over what has happened here in 11 years. I have never personally witnessed the growth of a village to a city, but that's what's occurred here. And it's just shocking.

Chanelling the spirit of Sofia Pitrillo, here goes my best effort the describe Gili T. then, and now.

Picture it. Gili T. The island was "settled" by fishermen from the island of Sarawak in the 1950s, but in 2001, it had barely made it into the backpacking guide books (although some intrepid travelers had begun to arrive in the late 1980's). It was a word-of-mouth kind of destination, and when you made the difficult journey from Bali to Lombok, and then through the choppy sea from Lombok, you understood why. Nobody wanted the secret to get out; the place was pristine. The tri colored waters--from dark blue to turquoise, and then ringed by the most gorgeous aqua--lapped at white sand beaches. You could snorkel maybe 10 meters off the beach and see coral, giant sea turtles, and gorgeous tropical fish. When I say Gili T. is the second largest of the three Gilis, I need to put that in context. Second largest means probably 7 km in circumference. Just a guess. We biked it yesterday, and it took us about 45 mins, but that's only because we often had to walk the bikes through the deep beach sand that covers the coastal path.

Arriving in Gili T, your rickety wooden fishing boat (with small motor belching out petrol), simply anchored at the shore, you rolled up your pants, jumped out, and somebody threw you your backpack.

Accomodation consisted of maybe 10-15 family run losmen (guesthouses), which were mostly simple thatched huts behind the road. There were a few very basic concrete block motel style places with private bathrooms. When M. and I arrived, we spent our first night sleeping in a local guy's bedroom (not with him ;), because there were no rooms available, and he was kind enough to give us a place to stay. This was apparently a common situation when you arrived later in the day (on 1 of 2 boats that came per day) as we had. People would typically sleep on the beach or outside in hammocks in that situation. But I was never that hardcore.

Days were spent swimming, snorkelling, and lounging in beachside restaurants, with their cushion filled raised thatched platforms. Of course, with a good book and drink in hand.

Even back then, Trawangan was considered the "party island" of the 3 Gilis. That meant a once weekly dance party at one bar. The rest of the time, it was chill, baby, chill.

There were no ATMs, no stores, no market, no money changers, no spas. There were maybe 3 dive shops. there were some cidomo (the tiny pony drawn carriages that replace cars here), but I don't recall seeing anyone on a bike. You just kind of wandered and got wherever you got.

For those friends who have backpacked Southeast Asia (there are several of you!), it was like the southern Thai islands that many of you visited in the early 2000's..Ko Tao would be the closest.

Fast forward, to 2012. We arrive on a speed boat directly from Bali, and roll up our pants, pass our kids to waiting arms on the ground, and jump out. someone tosses us our luggage. This time, it's not two bavkpacks, but one duffel bag and a Pack 'n Play (we left the rest of our luggage in Bali). There is now a pier, so not sure why we didnt use it, but i did enjoy that arrival.

The costal road is now jam packed, both beach side and across, with dive shops (30 or more, I'm guessing?), numerous tiny shops selling sunscreen and sarongs, and restaurant after restaurant. The potholed road (still dirt) is choked with cidomo traffic, abd hundreds of people riding bikes. There are even people jogging!

The thatched bungalows have been replaced by luxury villas and boutique hotels, many of which have ocean facing infinity pools and swim up bars. Many of the beach front restaurants have maintained the same desert island/simple wooden tables on the beach aesthetic. There are just SO MANY of them, and they're so clise to each other. And there are some nice places, including Italian, Sushi, and a French cafe. There is a gelato stand. There are at least 5 ATMs. There are spas offering full body massages and pedicures. And there is pumping nightlife. And everywhere, everywhere, new places are being built. On the north shore, which was deserted, there are 2 or 3 five star hotels. Thankfully, most of the development is low rise, and the hotels decorate in traditional Lombok style.

As part of Lombok, the Gilis are Muslim, but you wouldn't know it, save from the beautiful call to prayer heard from the brand new mosque 5 times a day.

There is now a night market in what is now essentially a town square. It's filled with stalls which I'm sure are filled with delicious food. But eating street food is where I draw the line when it comes to travelling with the kids.

having said all of this, the place is still obscenely gorgeous, nothing can change that. We are staying in a boutique hotel with an incredible pool. Our room has a bathroom that's igger than Big J's bedroom, and its got a bidet. Of couse, that was one if the first things Big J had to explore. ;)

We still eat our meals on the beach, and last night, we were able to get Little J's clip on high chair onto a low table in a thatched roof spot. The food is even better than I remember, with tons if places offering super fresh barbecued fish, along with fixins such as corn on the cob, baked potatoes and salad. Yum.

It's not the same experience, but it's still incredible, and I feel lucky that we're here. The reality is that if it was the same as it had been, we probably wouldn't be here with two little kids. It's still a far flung, truly exotic place. The water and views across the water to Lombok's massive vilcano, Rinjani, are still beautiful. And on our bike ride yesterday, we saw that at least half of the island is still wild and undeveloped. So maybe later today we'll go hang out on a quiet piece of shore, which is still so easy to do.

We plan on staying 2 more nights--tonight, and tomorrow...which is a BIG day for us. It's M's 40th birthday!!! I didn't plan for it as well as I could have, but I have a few tricks up my sleeve, and I hope that being here will make it extra special for him.

After that, we'll head over to either Gili Air, or Gili Meno, where I think we'll find an experience closer to that of 11 years ago. We'll stay in a simpler place, and enjoy real peace for a few days. And then back to Bali for a final 2 nights (not sure where yet) before flying back home. Not ready to think about that yet!!



Saturday 16 June 2012

A change of pace in Amed

We arrived in Amed on Bali's far east coast this past Tuesday afternoon. The drive from Ubud took about 2.5 hours, and the final 20 minutes or so was spent weaving around the base of Bali's largest and most sacred volcano, Gunung Agung.The views of steeply terraced rice fields were just stunning--the most gorgeous scenery thus far.

Amed is even quieter than I thought it would be. The area is just a collection of tiny fishing villages in a traditionally rural and less developed part of Bali. A group of very small hotels (most only have a handful of bungalows) cluster together on a small strip of volcanic black sand beach. A major beach resort this is not. There aren't any ATMs or even any stores. It's so peaceful and quiet. And more development is sure to come, as it's evolving as a destination for world class snorkeling and scuba diving.

Of course, this being Bali, you can still get pretty much whatever you want. A poolside massage, and delicious food are yours at the drop of a hat. But after Ubud, which is so busy and a bit chaotic, it's kind of nice to be in a place where there's really nothing to do but relax at the pool or go snorkeling.

Our hotel is a basic family run place, and not nearly as nice as our hotel in Ubud, but the grounds are lovely with lush gardens and a great pool. The best part about it has been the fact that we've had the place to ourselves most days. Literally. There have been 4 other guests in 5 days. So when we sit down at the restaurant for breakfast and completely take over with our various eating related paraphernalia, we don't feel so guilty for disturbing other guests. There's nobody else but us. The best part is having the pool to ourselves.

M. Has taught Big J how to use a snorkel and mask in the pool (we were able to rent a tiny one for him!) and he did so well that M. actually took him snorkeling about 10 feet from the shore. And they saw fish! He of course wanted to join M. when he took a boat out to snorkel at a shipwreck site. We had to give him the usual spiel about "when you get a little bit older...". So he can add that to the myriad things he plans on doing when he's older, including riding a motorcycle, driving a dump truck and flying a helicopter. The kid's got dreams.

On M's snorkeling foray today, he saw...wait for it...a MASSIVE sea turtle. Sooo lucky.

Yesterday was our only outing while here, and we hired a car and driver to take us to a nearby traditional market and a water palace called Tirtta Ganga. It was full of massive pools, funky with Koi fish and statues. We took a little picnic of fruits and bread, and the kids had fun sharing our food with the huge goldfish.

We've enjoyed these slower days, and we're moving on to more chill out time....in the Gili Islands off of Lombok (another island in Indonesia's archipelago, just east of Bali).

I realize that I've overused the word "paradise" on this blog...but there's just no other way to describe these magical 3 islands. They are tiny swaths of sand in the middle of the ocean that are fringed by palm trees, white sand beaches and gorgeous coral. Each island is tiny enough to be circumnavigated in a couple hours on foot. And there are no cars, only tiny horse drawn carriages.
M. and i visited in 2001, and over the years have talked at length about how it was our paradise, and we longed to go back one day. When we went, there was very little tourist infrastructure. Think simple backpacker accommodation, thatched roof chill out beach restos and quiet nights. And getting there was difficult. From Bali, we had to take a ferry to Lombok, then a bus, then another bus, then a horse and carriage, and then a rickety wooden boat across the ocean. Certainly not for the faint of heart. Of course, the challenge in getting there was part of the experience, and made the reward if being there all the more satisfying. Needless to say, we did not plan on going with the kids, despite the fact that we were both dying to.

It turns out that the Gilis have developed immensely over the last 11 years. There are now 5 star resorts, and chefs from all over the world have set up shop. It is now a full fledged destination that isno longer just for backpackers. The best part of the development is that there is now direct speed boat service from several spots in Bali, including right here in Amed! For a few days we debated it, but after talking to several tourists who had just returned...we just could not be this close and not go. Tomorrow morning we make the 45 minute trip. I can't believe we're actually going, I have thought and dreamed about this place so much over the years!

Stay tuned for more updates, and hopefully pics, depending on the wifi situation. Keep checking in!

Monday 11 June 2012

Wireless Issues

If you're following our adventures in Bali, check back on some of my recent posts (without pics) in a few days to see if I've added any pics.  The wireless at this hotel has been really spotty and has made it a big challenge to blog from here, and especially to post pics.  So if you read a post with no pics, check back on it to see if I've added any. 

Day 12: Animal Safari and Water Park

Today we headed to a true family attraction with Jesse, Felicity and family.  We had a great time at the zoo.  We loved the drive through exhibit (in the park's jeep/train type vehicle) to see some of the big game of Indonesia, India and Africa.  Big J loved seeing the hippos.  I loved seeing tigers up close and personal.  And there was a special exhibit with White Tigers, which were just gorgeous. 
After we recharged with lunch in the cafĂ©, we headed to the zoo’s cute little waterpark, where we all had a blast.  Playing on waterslides and chilling in the kiddie pool was just what the doctor ordered after schlepping 5 kids and 5 adults around in the scorching heat. 
We said goodbye to our new friends after a fun few days hanging out.  We hope to meet up again since we’re all here until the end of the month.  We’ll probably meet somewhere on a beach in the south.   We leave Ubud tomorrow for Amed, on Bali’s less developed East Coast.  I’ll miss it here, especially our great hotel, and Rai.  But moving on to new adventures...