Amed is even quieter than I thought it would be. The area is just a collection of tiny fishing villages in a traditionally rural and less developed part of Bali. A group of very small hotels (most only have a handful of bungalows) cluster together on a small strip of volcanic black sand beach. A major beach resort this is not. There aren't any ATMs or even any stores. It's so peaceful and quiet. And more development is sure to come, as it's evolving as a destination for world class snorkeling and scuba diving.
Of course, this being Bali, you can still get pretty much whatever you want. A poolside massage, and delicious food are yours at the drop of a hat. But after Ubud, which is so busy and a bit chaotic, it's kind of nice to be in a place where there's really nothing to do but relax at the pool or go snorkeling.
Our hotel is a basic family run place, and not nearly as nice as our hotel in Ubud, but the grounds are lovely with lush gardens and a great pool. The best part about it has been the fact that we've had the place to ourselves most days. Literally. There have been 4 other guests in 5 days. So when we sit down at the restaurant for breakfast and completely take over with our various eating related paraphernalia, we don't feel so guilty for disturbing other guests. There's nobody else but us. The best part is having the pool to ourselves.
M. Has taught Big J how to use a snorkel and mask in the pool (we were able to rent a tiny one for him!) and he did so well that M. actually took him snorkeling about 10 feet from the shore. And they saw fish! He of course wanted to join M. when he took a boat out to snorkel at a shipwreck site. We had to give him the usual spiel about "when you get a little bit older...". So he can add that to the myriad things he plans on doing when he's older, including riding a motorcycle, driving a dump truck and flying a helicopter. The kid's got dreams.
On M's snorkeling foray today, he saw...wait for it...a MASSIVE sea turtle. Sooo lucky.
Yesterday was our only outing while here, and we hired a car and driver to take us to a nearby traditional market and a water palace called Tirtta Ganga. It was full of massive pools, funky with Koi fish and statues. We took a little picnic of fruits and bread, and the kids had fun sharing our food with the huge goldfish.
We've enjoyed these slower days, and we're moving on to more chill out time....in the Gili Islands off of Lombok (another island in Indonesia's archipelago, just east of Bali).
I realize that I've overused the word "paradise" on this blog...but there's just no other way to describe these magical 3 islands. They are tiny swaths of sand in the middle of the ocean that are fringed by palm trees, white sand beaches and gorgeous coral. Each island is tiny enough to be circumnavigated in a couple hours on foot. And there are no cars, only tiny horse drawn carriages.
M. and i visited in 2001, and over the years have talked at length about how it was our paradise, and we longed to go back one day. When we went, there was very little tourist infrastructure. Think simple backpacker accommodation, thatched roof chill out beach restos and quiet nights. And getting there was difficult. From Bali, we had to take a ferry to Lombok, then a bus, then another bus, then a horse and carriage, and then a rickety wooden boat across the ocean. Certainly not for the faint of heart. Of course, the challenge in getting there was part of the experience, and made the reward if being there all the more satisfying. Needless to say, we did not plan on going with the kids, despite the fact that we were both dying to.
It turns out that the Gilis have developed immensely over the last 11 years. There are now 5 star resorts, and chefs from all over the world have set up shop. It is now a full fledged destination that isno longer just for backpackers. The best part of the development is that there is now direct speed boat service from several spots in Bali, including right here in Amed! For a few days we debated it, but after talking to several tourists who had just returned...we just could not be this close and not go. Tomorrow morning we make the 45 minute trip. I can't believe we're actually going, I have thought and dreamed about this place so much over the years!
Stay tuned for more updates, and hopefully pics, depending on the wifi situation. Keep checking in!
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